Balmain F/W 12.13 Paris via Vogue.
“Refined and more thoughtful is the direction Olivier Rousteing decided to take for his second season at the helm of a label whose aesthetic became a cult in its own right under Christophe Decarnin’s guidance: Balmain.
Pearls, jewels, green velvet and gold all worked together as wider-in-the shoulder and boxier jackets – where in the past they had been inverted triangles – took to the catwalk. It was out, not up, in silhouette – a trick that brought a real freshness.
The colour palette, too, proved this new fresh luxe direction – no longer muddied by the Balmain girl’s night out before. Think medieval green, pinks and silver, glistening brocades, pearlescent shades and opulent gold with cream and white.
This collection conveyed layers of cultural references – in the ornately embroidered biker jackets not dissimilar to tapestries, and the first series of pearl studded looks which looked like extravagant sets of armour (well, even with her new direction, the Balmain girl is always ready to go into battle).”